News
A Peorian Restaurant Review: The Creve Coeur Club
- Details
- Published on Sunday, 21 February 2016 14:07
- Written by Kevin Kizer
It’s a rather unassuming place on the outside. A location you’ve walked past perhaps a hundred times and barely noticed. Or if you did notice the ornate but sedate wooden doors you still might not realize that what lies on the other side is one of Peoria’s finest restaurants.
The Creve Coeur Club, located just off the Fulton Street entrance in the Twin Towers, not only has a fine dining atmosphere and reputation, but it also serves up an exceptional pub-style menu during the lunch hour, as I and three guests experienced just recently.
But first things first: the CCC (or 3C? perhaps 33?) is obviously a private club. Unfortunately, one just can’t wander in and grab a bite. One must…belong. Or at least be friends with someone who does belong, as I was lucky enough to be. And so enough with that.
While the Creve Coeur Club has an exclusive feel and atmosphere — and it is clearly the place where Peoria’s elite mingle, even during the lunch hour (John Bearce and Wayne Baum were there) — it didn’t come across as intimidating or stiff.
The lunch menu is referred to as pub style, but I would almost compare it to a gastro pub, which might be a fine distinction but an important one. Essentially, gastro pubs up the ante on traditional pub fare and the Creve Coeur Club definitely does the same.
Before I get into the food, a quick digression on My Philosophy for Restaurant Reviewery. Instead of coming in an ordering a bunch of random things or ordering what I would typically order, I always ask for recommendations and then – after scouring the menu for something intriguing or unique – undoubtedly go with what was recommended. The main reason is that I want to see the best the restaurant has to offer from their perspective, even if it’s a simple as delicious, homemade bread or something unique like seafood crepes (both of which the Creve Coeur Club serves up). It’s a challenge in a way: give me what you think is your best and then I’ll write about it. End digression.
So what did we get?
Upon recommendation of our server, we started with fresh baked pretzel bread along with “overloaded” baked potato soup (some in the group ordered “salad” which does not deserve a mention other than to shame them. Shame!). Pretzel buns have been a trend for quite awhile (which I guess doesn’t make them a trend anymore) for burgers and sandwiches, but fresh baked pretzel bread is a joy in and of itself, although it was accompanied by cheese sauce.
The “overloaded” part of the baked potato soup was undoubtedly in reference to the amount of crispy bacon found within, always a good thing. Being a cold February day, this was a perfect start to lunch or almost a lunch in and of itself.
For our entrees, the four of us went our own ways: seafood crepes, crab cakes, chicken pot pie, and, for me, a fresh lobster roll (which was, naturally, the recommendation of our server). Just a few notes on each entrée:
- The seafood crepes were cooked perfectly with light brown, crispy edges and featured small scallops and tiny gulf shrimp that were whole, as opposed to larger scallops and shrimp that would have been chopped up which is a horrible thing to do to any scallop or shrimp. A light lobster sauce tied it all together nicely.
- The crab cakes came with the claim that they were the “best in town”. Now, I have had crab cakes at almost every restaurant in Peoria I’ve been to that serves them and these were right up there with, if not better than, the better seafood places in town. Another quick digression: I don’t know how many restaurants have told me they have the best crab cakes in town (upwards of 90% if not all of them) but it makes me want to have a citywide crab cakes competition. Everyone seems to think they have the best.
- The chicken pot pie deserves a special mention because of the way it was served — a bowl of crusty, fresh-baked bread was smashed with a fork by our server before being drenched in a thick, creamy chicken stew. This kept the bread from getting soggy and created a unique texture unlike a typical chicken pot pie, which can often be a gloopy/gooey mess.
- The lobster roll was very good, but honestly, I’ve only had a lobster roll one other time and it was in New Orleans and I was REALLY drunk and it was REALLY late… So the frame of reference might not be there. But having said that, the lobster was perfectly cooked (no overcooked rubbery bullets here) and it came in a light fresh lobster sauce with fresh celery and onions. I typically avoid fresh onions in sandwiches because they tend to stick with you long after the meal is done, but, in the right proportion (as was this case), they added just the right bite.
- While the lobster roll came with homemade potato chips, the crepes and cakes came with a generous amount of fresh fruit on the side – a nice bright pairing to the sauce-laden dishes.
Along with above-average-to-great food, we were served quickly and the food came out in a timely manner – crucial for a lunch crowd. It also was – somewhat surprisingly – decently priced with entrees clocking in anywhere from $8 to $13.
In summation, I have to say I’m disappointed that Creve Coeur Club is private. Its food – at least the food my party sampled – is special and a respite from the typical lunch fare served up at similarly priced restaurants around town. And being something of a gastro pub it’s menu is unique and a step up, without being stuffy. But then again I guess that’s why it’s private. So you’ll just have to find yourself someone who “belongs” and con them into getting you in. I have a few names if you’re interested (of course, I’ll have to tag along).
